Gonna take a Pass from now on!

After spending a most excellent weekend on the ski trails in Gatineau Park I was interested in doing something different on Monday. For most of this season I have been interested (but somewhat intimidated) to ski through the Avalanche pass in the Adirondacks. In fact I've wanted to ski this route for the last couple of years. One of the classic backcountry ski tours in the north east the trail skis up through a rugged pass to Avalanche and Colden Lakes. I’m well familiar with the terrain having hiked through the pass a number of times in the summer but the ski trail is cut differently from the hiking trail and I wanted to test my mettle. Monday looked like a good day to try it and – with the season dwindling – perhaps one of my last chances this season. Drove down to Lake Placid relatively early and got to the Adirondack Loj parking lot in good time. Sunny skies on the drive down but clouds were starting to fill in so it wouldn’t be a bluebird day but no matter. I wasn’t headed to the peaks but rather the valleys in between.

Looking up to Avalanche Pass from Marcy dam
From the Loj I skied the standard hiking trail up to Marcy dam. Stopped a couple of times to adjust the wax which I initially struggled to get right. Snow was hard packed and a little glazed with the air temperature sitting at -5C… blue wax didn’t work, carrot, gave me grip but was scrapped off too quickly so I finally settled on rugged Teho green – my usual base binder. Likely a blue klister would have been ideal but applying klister in the woods isn’t an easy task so the Teho was a good alternative. It worked well and lasted me almost the whole day so thumbs up. The ski up to Marcy dam and then to the base of the pass is in general a pretty easy ski of about 3 miles. Gentle grades through hardwood forests meant a pleasant ski. I took my full winter pack (~ 18lbs) with me even though this was to be a relatively short ski day. Better to test things out with full loads and get a full sense of the tour rather than do a fast ski today and then complicate things in the future should I opt for a full day tour. At Avalanche camp the trails split. The hiking (and snowshoeing) trail, more or less, goes straight up the fall line (about 500ft) through the trees to the top of the pass. The ski trail however is beautifully cut to make three long switchbacks gaining elevation more gradually. There are indeed a few steep drops but lots of flatter sections to catch your breath on the climb or regain your composure on the descent. The switch backs are pretty wide but the straighter bits are, at times, pretty tight through the trees so they require some confidence. Adding to that, I guess most people use AT ski gear with skins to climb. With skins you can go straight up pretty much anything. For me – on waxed skis – it was a little tough at times. Herringbone worked well where there was space, some cross cut, some scrambling when things got tight and little by little I made progress up the steeper pitches switching techniques as the track deemed. An exercise for the head as well as the body!

Options for the descent - go high? or swing low.
Now, what happens at the bend below? Can't remember...
Topping out in the pass you ski through the avalanche area (no yodeling please ;) and then there is a very tight, twisty series of drops through the rocks and trees before being flushed out on a rapid drop onto Avalanche lake itself. In the summer a rocky clamber along the edge of the lake is required to get around the water but in the winter a short ski and I was across the lake and into the woods again. Another short twisty tree lined trail takes you to Colden lake and the heart of the high peaks. Beautiful day but the clouds were continually rolling overhead. Today the open area on the lakes was pretty windy so I didn’t want to spend a lot of time on them but it’s hard to pull yourself away as the views are spectacular.

Skier crossing Avalanche Lake - yes, that dot out there is a skier
The return trip across the lakes went quickly and soon enough I was back to the pass and ready for the descent. For the most part it went pretty smoothly. As I mentioned the snow was hard packed and a bit glazed so perhaps things would be a little faster than I would have liked for my first descent. There was enough texture to the snow though so one could maintain control. Steel edges would have been nice but weren’t really needed. In softer snow it would be a real treat. In spots the trail is narrow so some comfort with skiing in the trees and confidence in your ability to point in the right direction on cue are required. In spots the sudden appearance of people climbing up might be a problem forcing one to ditch but I met no one on the descent today. The trail builders are – as always –wise though and there are lots of chances to collect oneself before pushing off onto the next pitch. Much like the ascent, changing techniques as the pitch and trail size dictated made for easy passage. Christies, snowplow, sideslips, tele’s… whatever gets you down the hill can surely be deemed “technique”, no? Even though I had just climbed it there was still a degree of uncertainty as to what was around the next bend. With a somewhat narrow trail one doesn’t want to get too “over the edge” only to find a tightly treed bend. I would expect another ski or two would make the turns more familiar and one could attack the descent with some more verve. Certainly the skiing Forest Rangers I met later in the day – who ski through the pass several times a week - had no concerns about the trail and enjoyed it each time down.

Skiing Rangers get to do this route several times a week!
Once safely down from the pass the trail back to Marcy dam and the car went pretty quickly. What is usually a long trudge at the end of a hiking day was pretty much effortless. Avalanche camp to Marcy dam was 5 minutes compared to a 30 or 40 minute walk and Marcy dam to the car – normally about an hour walk – was no more than a 10 minute glide (with a few short climbs). In the future all winter hiking trips into the high peaks from the Loj…they’ll be on skis as far as I can go to enjoy those return glides to the car. Really glad to get this ski in before the end of the season. I’ve procrastinated too long on this one and in the end it was well worth the effort to make the trip. A few more pics here.

Swirling clouds above Avalanche Lake

Farewell Old man winter '10-11

You certainly had your moments... now what does spring have in store?

A spring ski

Spring skiing is all about the right attitude...
Got out for s spring ski in the park today. Conditions were pretty nice with cold temperatures overnight and warm sunshine during the day. That weather recipe isn't only for maple syrup produces - it makes for some sweet skiing as well! Skied up to Lusk cabin which probably has the best deck for enjoying the sunshine. The climb itself was a little icy in spots but the warm sunshine was working hard to soften the tracks. Spent a long time on the deck enjoying the sunshine and feeding the local landlords before finally coaxing myself back onto the boards for a little more skiing.


The local landlords collecting the "rent". Birds don't like raisins!? Who knew!
The snow pack up at Lac Phillippe is a little lower than in other parts of the park and small patches of road are starting to show here and there but not so much as to spoil the skiing. I would wager another good weekend of skiing to be had and then perhaps a weekend of semi good skiing at least before its time to call it quits. And maybe we'll get another snowstorm! Guess we'll see what happens and keep a ski selection ready for whatever comes in the next little while.


Spring appears to be taking hold...

Another quick trip to the peaks

After my last trip to Lake Placid I had wanted to head back once more for another bit of skiing and hiking and this past weekend seemed to fit the bill. Weather (and snowpack) at home in the Gatineau Hills looked less than ideal with warm weather and a fresh dump of soft snow that didn't look too appealing. Sure enough a short ski on Saturday left me unimpressed. That solidified my plan to make the quick drive south where winter has been hitting hard for the last three months. Sunday I awoke extra early though it took me couple of hours to realize I had got an hour’s less sleep than I had anticipated. As I drove down I tried to sort out where I might go to ski and as I was debating it, snow began to fall… quite heavily. Looking like a repeat of my last trip I headed back to the Garden parking lot and at 8am was lucky to get a parking spot. Lots of folks climbing, camping and skiing this weekend in relatively mild weather (at -2C). Strapped on the skis and headed up the trail along the Johns brook valley. While this trail is not exactly cross country friendly it is skiable and with fresh snow falling even the tricky bits were pretty easy to ski through.

Skiing a suspension bridge was a new treat

I had heard there was some nice natural glade skiing at the outlet of “Bennies Root Canal” slide. The slide itself is still a little beyond my skill level but the glades were supposed to be at a lower angle so I thought I’d check them out. After an interesting ski across the Johns Brook suspension bridge I skied down to the access point for the slide and sure enough the trees were remarkably well spaced. I’m not gonna suggest they aren’t “naturally” spaced… but I wouldn’t be shocked to hear that perhaps some “light” pruning goes on by the locals in the warmer seasons… just sayin’. I skied up to the entry of the slide but it was a grey overcast day with a bunch of snow falling so I didn’t really get a good look. The slide went UP… and that’s about all I could tell. Turning around I did a few drops down through the trees and really enjoyed my turns before heading further up the valley to check out some of the trail network I was familiar with from summer hiking. Met a few other groups of skiers heading in to get some turns on some of the more serious slides. They were well equipped with a lot of gear so I left them to it… but maybe someday. The ski out was actually pretty fun. Hiking this trail in the summer is a bit of an unpleasant trudge. Mostly downhill but 3 miles that never seems to end. Probably no shock that on skis, well…, it goes a little quicker. A few obstacles had to be overcome but for the most part it’s a nice slide out. Good day in the woods for sure and even though it started far earlier than it had to it was a worthwhile day exploring a new corner of the valley.

Skiers off to ski the steeps (keeping the lens clean in a snowstorm is another thing to work on...)

Monday dawned a little cooler and with a heavy grey overcast. It was supposed to clear out by noon but I had my doubts. Today I had Mike join me for a hike. He had just started his spring break and was looking for a couple of days in the ADK. Sunday was not too his liking (too snowy) but Monday/Tuesday were expected to be sunny so it worked out nicely that we could hook up for this hike. Mike suggested we hike to Colden which has stellar views. Hard to argue with such sound logic so we loaded up at the Loj and hit the trails. I was tempted to ski the first bit up to Marcy dam and perhaps beyond but – with Mike on snowshoes – decided it would be better to keep the group together. I wouldn’t have been much faster on the way in(up) but would have left him for dust on the way out. To be fair the cold overnight temperatures meant that the snowpack was pretty solid and snowshoes weren’t really needed for the first part of the hike. Its a well trodden path all winter but the rules (laws) are clear. We passed two ranger posts along the way so why risk a ticket. The snowshoes went on at the lot and stayed there till we got back even though the crampons were often skipping off the snowcrust causing us to stumble from time to time. Of course higher up we wouldn't have been too successful without snowshoes. Several spots had DEEEP postholes from people without them so the shoes were certainly needed at some point.

Nearing the North Summit

Up to Lake Arnold and for the most part right to the summit the track was well broken out. We met one group coming off the summit but no one else until we got mostly back down to the valley floor. At the North summit (just short of the actual summit) of Colden Mike opted to call it quits. The last push to the summit isn’t far but its steep and Mike is wise enough to know that pushing ones limits can turn a fun hike into a bit of a trial. Besides the views from the north summit are just as good and he had another day of hiking on tap for Tuesday so why push it. I still had some gas and so made the climb to the top while Mike snapped pics in all directions while waiting for my return. Colden’s summit can be quite a hostile environment in winter but today wasn’t too bad with a light breeze keeping things moderately chilly. Fortunately the snow pack was rock solid so I didn’t have to worry about spruce traps gobbling me up while I gawked at the views. Too soon I headed back down to the north summit and had a bite to eat before we packed up and headed for home. The sun had started to open up the views and while we would have liked to stay… winter cold limits summit lounging time somewhat.

One last trudge up Colden's barren summit

This sled just didn't cut it (No I didn't leave it there - brought it home to recycle!)
Deep in my pack I had brought my new “snow screamer” sled to improve some of the descents… but it proved a big bust. It cracked on my first descent and split in two by the third ride. BOOO-urns! Not ADK tough I guess. I’ll have to try something else until I get it right as sliding down mountains is definitely where it’s at. The long trails down are pretty smooth and develop a nice trench to keep you on track – perfect sliding. Back at Marcy dam the day had really warmed up and the clouds had pushed off. Was really wishing I had my skis at that point as the last couple of miles to the car were pretty slow going (aren’t they always?) but eventually we got out and parted company. Another beautiful day in the mountains on the books and glad to have Mike along for the ride. A little jealous that he would be back out there the next day but I had to get back to work.

A full set of pics can be had HERE.
Now, do I head back next weekend for one more winter hike? or stay home and get started on some local spring skiing? Decisions...

Peaks and Packs - looking over to the Mac's

A quick roadtrip

With this past week off I had kinda wanted to get away for a few days and do some skiing in new places. Sadly the weather kept acting up on days I had picked to “travel” so a longer road trip wasn’t in the cards. Add to that the already stated “weather” dropped some of the best snow of the season here in town and I wanted to get in on some of that so I wasn’t too motivated to leave town. Still, seemed a shame not to get some time away so I loaded up the car and drove down to Lake Placid on Wednesday. The drive down was pretty nice when I started – sunny and clear roads but as I got to Saranac Lake the snow started to fall and by the time got to the South Meadow road (my ski destination) it was belting down with snow. Grabbed a pack and my wide boards and headed out for what I thought would be a little tour. Didn’t even grab a camera as I figured I’d be back in less than an hour and there wouldn’t be much to see. Four hours later I had toured through some great trails – most of which are “skiing only” (across bogs and up stream beds) so I haven’t been able to walk on them in the summer. The snow pounded down while I skied so the powder conditions were great. I would estimate 10-12 inches fell in the four hours I was out and about. The only drawback was that the plow had been by while I was out and I had to shovel my car out upon my return… not too big a deal and well worth the price of admission for a day in the fresh snow.

Snowy, windy Lake Placid
Thursday dawned clear and cooold! At -25F it seemed to be ridiculous to head outside but there was not a breath of wind so in fact it was quite nice. That said I drove around getting a few errands done (and letting it warm up) before heading up to the Garden trailhead to get a hike in. Chose to climb Big Slide mountain which has some stunning views of the Great Range. A couple of groups had signed in ahead of me so I didn’t even have to break trail. Breaking trail proved not to be much of a problem as it turns out Wednesdays storm was very localized. Here in the eastern high peaks there was only about 1 inch of fresh snow down so trail breaking wasn’t a big deal. The trail climbs steeply from the get go so in no time I was removing several layers even though it was about -12C at this point. Shortly after that I crested the first ridges and the views opened up. Brilliant blue skies and a warm sun greeted me and the next few tricky scrambles up the ridge line were easy enough in the softening snow. Even the final climb up to the summit – which is a doozy – wasn’t too bad and the snowshoes were more than up for the challenge. I had met both groups that had signed in ahead of me about halfway up the trail and on the summit met another guy who was camping in the valley. He had come up with his buddies but stayed on the summit alone for about 3 hours basking in the sun on this windless day. Can’t say I blame him and I too spent about 45 minutes which – for winter – is a long time.

The winding trail from one "Brother" to the next. "Giant" dominates the background
Finally time to head down, I learned the joys of the butt slide. The last 1/3 of a mile to the summit is pretty steep and a little sketchy (about 400 vertical feet). It took me – with a picture stop halfway – about 12 minutes to trudge up making sure to firmly plant the snowshoes lest I backslide down the trail. On my way up I noted some beautiful vistas off behind me and decided I should stop on the way down and take a few photos. That plan was dashed as the return trip down – 1/3 of a mile and all – took about 30s on a riotously fun luge ride (sans luge)down. Zoooooooom! Those pictures will have to wait for another day.

The classic "slide face" photo on Big Slide. Should have taken a few more shots on the way up
The walk out was pretty nice. For the first time on this peak (this being my third or fourth trip) I chose to walk back along the same ridgeline as I had come in on rather than make a loop and drop down into the valley. That proved to be a good choice. Lots of good views to be had on the return trip and better light in the fading afternoon sun. Another good hike in the books on what proved to be a perfect day in spite of its frigid start.

Last of the views on the way down

Probabilities

The probability that every major snow storm would gently sidle past us this winter seemed unlikely. Yet, as we moved into March, it seemed like that would be the case this year as we’ve had only small dustings of snow. Quite a few small dustings leaving enough to ski mind you, but never big “whomping” gobs of snow. Sadly, Monday had an ugly forecast – to a skier – with a storm moving inexorably towards us with +13C and rain called for. I was seriously beginning to wonder if the season was coming to an early close, but as Monday drew nearer the forecast started to change. A little cooler, maybe some freezing rain instead of rain (not much better)… and then a little cooler still. Late Sunday night Bryan dropped me a text knowing I was off and suggested we do “something” on Monday. "What?" I asked. "Dunno, what’s the weather gonna be like". We held off till Monday morning and – with rain at his house in Barrhaven we weren’t sure what to make of it. Take a shot? Why not, the probability that it rains all day should be slim. His kids were off for a “snow day” – which seemed odd since it was raining - but he left them at home as we had no idea what we were up against. No point the whole family should “perish” in this outing ;) Skis? Bring ‘em. Snowshoes? Put ‘em in the car. Canoe… could be useful. Raingear…without a doubt!


Healey Hut before the storm

Healey Hut during the storm
But then the odds started to play into my favour. As I crossed the river in town the rain turned to snow…then a lot of snow… then whacks of snow. Series of texts with Bryan (how does he do that while driving? What’s that – he does it at the red lights? Hmmm…) and we met up at P15 to snowshoe up to Healey hut. I had skied by the hut the day before but the snowshoe trail is quite different so it should be good. Wedged the cars in a snowbank in the unplowed parking lot, strapped on the “shoes” and in a raging snowstorm pushed across the fields for the tree line. The hike up to Healey hut was slow going in deep unbroken snow but once inside the hut we got a good fire going. Relaxed over lunch, watched the snow pound down outside and counted dozens (and dozens) of Blue Jays at the feeder – a real fight for the food outside! - and then strolled back to the cars as the snow let up. Twenty cms of snow in all. A good storm. But then again, Bryan – a StatsCan employee (poster boy for the division if I believe the newspaper pictures ;) - should have been able to tell me the probability was good that a big storm would hit us before March arrived.


Bryan breaking out of the bush as the snowstorm rages
Tuesday I took the wide boards up to P7 and skied the backcountry trails in the fresh powder. Storm clouds had moved on leaving bluebird skies and a blanket of white behind. Didn’t get an early enough start and most of the trails had already been broken out but there was still some fresh snow to be had here and there… and even the “slightly used” snow was still a treat. Skied some of the classic trails and took a few of the big drops in very forgiving snow. The focus of the day was to return on the “Highland Fling” – a classic trail with a couple of monster drops. While it may not seem like a Ukrainian boy should know anything about the Highland Fling… after too many years to count…I’m finally getting the hang of it and no longer is it a desperate, “hang on for dear life”, blast down a sinewy chute. The trail builders of years past knew what they were doing and finally some of that is becoming apparent to me. Where was the “Yoda” of the wide boards when I needed him. Ah well, think I’ve got it figured now. It only took a few hundred tries. The probability was good I’d get it eventually.

Fresh snow in the quiet woods